Great cities pride themselves on the beauty of their streets and their signature attractions. That being the case, it stands to reason that the mention of Paris brings to mind glorious boulevards and elegant buildings as well as great museums, fashion and gastronomy.Today's Paris is very different from the past, when warrens of narrow, unsanitary medieval alleys made up most of the city. In the 19th century, rebuilding transformed the city into the beauty seen today.

These modern changes occurred during the reign of Napoleon III (nephew and heir of Napoleon I), who was emperor from 1852 to 1870. He decided to rebuild Paris and commissioned Baron Georges-Eugene Haussmann (1809-1891) the prefect (state's representative) of the Seine Department.

Haussmann's renovations transformed 60 percent of the city. This remarkable urban planning of Paris and surrounding districts included the modernization of streets, boulevards, parks, public monuments, sewers, water facilities and the largest reservoir in the world.

A major part of Haussmann's plan was the addition of prestigious buildings, such as the Opera Garnier and town halls, and renovations of superb railroad stations. The narrow alleys were replaced with wide streets and great boulevards, and the old structures along the streets were demolished to give way to updated buildings. These were adorned with elegant formal facades and had to conform to specific rules of uniformity in styles (balconies, cornices and stonework around windows) and dimensions (width and height).

Boulevard Haussmann is named for the man who renovated Paris in the 19th century and brought its streets and architecture from medieval to modern. Photo courtesy of Paris Tourist Office, Amelie Dupont.

Haussmann's Place de l'Etoile is the center of the axes radiating from the Arc de Triomphe (commissioned by Napoleon 1 in 1806), and the Opera Garnier has another starlike alignment. Haussmann's vision is apparent when one looks down the sweeping avenues, including the well-known tree-filled Champs Elysees.

Avenue Champs Elysees and Boulevard Haussmann show his idealized style and are among the most iconographic images of Paris. Haussmann accomplished other grand, lasting projects, too, including the Bois de Boulogne, rue de Rivoli (the model for networks of arcaded streets), the Ile de la Cite (the tiny island known for the glorious Notre Dame Cathedral) and the Boulevard St. Germain on the Left Bank.

In spite of several political criticisms at the time, Haussmann's transformations improved the quality of life in the capital. Epidemics (other than tuberculosis) ceased, traffic eased and the new, elegant buildings were well-built and more functional.

On a recent visit, I treated myself to three nights on the Champs Elysees in Hotel Fouquet's Barriere, the newest (opened in 2006) five-star "palace" hotel, with five buildings designed in traditional Haussmann style.

The hotel rises above the famous red awnings of Fouquet's sidewalk cafe, restaurant and bar located on the corner of the Champs Elysees and Avenue George V, an ideal site for a lively, lasting business. Fouquet's has been on this corner for 200 years, originally as a canteen popular with drivers of horse-drawn carriages.

In 1899, Le Fouquet's restaurant buzzed as the "it" place for celebrities and French high society. After his 2006 election win, President Nicolas Sarkozy celebrated with a private dinner in the hotel. Film actors consider Fouquet's a favorite hangout. This year the restaurant hosted the gala dinner for the 36th annual Cesar Awards that honor the best in French cinema. The lobby is adorned with American movie-star faces, a familiar touch of home in Paris.

Nowadays, Hotel Fouquet's Barriere is a "monument historique" landmark in the Champs Elysees' prime location, the "golden triangle," which has recently undergone a revival. Across the street from the hotel, the new Louis Vuitton store draws admiration for its art deco style. Nearby on Avenue Montaigne, fabled fashion houses include Dior and Chanel.

Nearby are two museums that are often overlooked by tourists, although they always have something of interest going on. The Grand Palais, originally constructed in 1900 for the Paris World's Fair, showcases various events and retrospectives, such as the recent Picasso and Monet shows. In the Museum Petit Palais, I saw an exhibition devoted to Yves Saint Laurent's indescribably beautiful dress collections.

Walking down the tree-shaded Champs Elysees transported me to the historic Place de la Concorde and through the Jardin des Tuileries (renovated in the 17th century by Louis XIV, the Sun King) to the Louvre, arguably the greatest museum in the world. After an enriching time in the galleries and a pause in the Louvre's Food Court, I purchased gifts in the museum's Carousel stores.

Abutting the museum, the rue de Rivoli's arcaded sidewalks are lively with souvenir shops and excellent bookstores (Galignani and WHSmith) for English-language books. The rue Faubourg St.-Honore runs parallel and contains several outstanding couturier boutiques, including Hermes, Christian Lacroix, and Yves Saint Laurent.

The River Seine's presence adds to the city's beauty, whether one is enjoying views from the Ile de la Cite or crossing the river to the Left Bank. Here, the Musee d' Orsay (recently reopened after major work) is an important site for French art, particularly the permanent collections of the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists, and outstanding paintings by Vincent van Gogh.

Also on the Left Bank, the redesigned Ralph Lauren store, hugely admired by the French, is on Boulevard St. Germain, another Haussmann street.

Each day after touring, I relaxed in the hotel, surrounded by the delights of modern-chic, fin-de-siecle grandeur and luxury. Renowned Parisian designer Jacques Garcia's eclectic taste is evident in his medley of marble, mahogany, velvet, silk and embroidered leather to form several styles: Zen minimalism, Napoleonic grandeur and ancient Egyptian exoticism (Napoleon's fascination with Egypt evolved into the Empire style). The interior's melange of daring and whimsy is perfect in this most fashionable and beautiful city.

WHEN YOU GO

For general information: www.franceguide.com/us.

For walking tours in the City of Light, see "Frommer's 24 Great Walks in Paris" at www.frommers.com/destinations/paris/0062010008.html#ixzz1EFXhbJAZ.

At Hotel Fouquet's Barriere ask about packages, such as the romantic "Paris C'est L'Amour" and eco-package V.I.P. (Very Important Planet). On the roof, the Golfzon simulator is a must for golfers. The spa for body, mind and skin uses Sensai natural products for treatments.

Restaurant choices are the brasserie, the sidewalk cafe and Le Diane for innovative cuisine, Gallerie Joy for light dishes and Bar Le Lucien for drinks. Award-winning Chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer, voted Best Craftsman of France, is in charge of them all.

The hotel has been named the top "Leading Green" hotel in Europe for its responsibility in making ecological upgrades and installing eco-friendly systems and standards. Here it's possible to be cosseted in the lap of luxury without causing damage to the environment.

Sustainable Travel International gave the hotel certification for Luxury Eco Certification Standards. Only six hotels throughout the world carry this prestigious title. Certification demands 100 criteria in social and environmental commitment. Detergents have been replaced with water electrolysis and food waste is recycled as fertilizer. Reforestation of 100 acres of the Landes Forest in southwestern France is being undertaken with the funds raised from the hotel's grape harvest. Hybrid limousines are used for guests. The Champagne served here is Pop Earth, the first organic Champagne produced by Maison Pommery.

The hotel is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World and Leading Spas of the World: www.fouquets-barriere.com.