"Anyone who thinks that an everyday object like the bag is not an interesting item and that the museum is only something for women is totally wrong," said Sigrid A. Ivo, director of the Museum of Bags and Purses, the largest museum of its kind in the world. It traces the fascinating history of how men and women coped with carrying personal essentials before and after the invention of something we all take for granted — the pocket.

The oldest bag in the museum's 4,000-piece collection actually belonged to a 16th-century merchant who needed 18 different divisions to accommodate all the currencies used in European cities. Worn on a belt or "chatelaine" until the 18th century by both men and women, these expensively crafted items were easy targets for a beurzensnijder — purse cutter.

The shape of bags changed with fashion. Before tailors created pockets, voluminous, wide-hipped dresses allowed women to hide valuables in pouches worn on the thighs. When the look became streamlined, the precursor of the modern handbag emerged — a pouch with a drawstring or chain. The museum's artVision magazine reports that these were called the "indispensable" by the British and the "ridicule" by the French, who sneered at the concept of parading around with one's personal possessions in hand. Purses and handbags became such important accessories that a French fashion magazine quipped, "A woman can leave her husband but never her bag!"

The collection spans six centuries beginning with the late Middle Ages. The "Normandie" was created in the silhouette of the1935 luxury cruise liner to commemorate its maiden Le Havre to New York voyage and presented as a souvenir to all first-class passengers. Other standouts include the "Kelley" bag, created by Hermes for actress Grace Kelley, and the first mobile phone — Dallas Handbags' gorgeous 1980 vivid red leather handbag shaped like a telephone that actually worked when it was plugged in.

Those who can't afford a Kelley bag ($10,000 and a two-year wait) can still snag a snazzy number from the museum shop. At about $600, the Dutch designer Hester van Eeghen's contemporary leather bag crafted of black, green and red is the store's most expensive. There's also a whimsical handbag (about $64) made from plastic to reflect designer Door Thomassen's vegetarian ethos. Men will find the selection of laptop bags, crossed-shoulder bags, phone covers and key chains attractive. Shows by young local and international designers and exhibitions of interesting brands rotate every few weeks and are then offered for sale in the store.

Located between Leidsetraat and Raadhuisstraat is the area called De 9 Straatjes. Named after the nine side streets connecting the main canals, this delightful neighborhood is brimming with unique shops, charming eateries and great ambience. Anyone spending an afternoon here is sure to take home unexpected finds.

At Zipper, a store specializing in second-hand, vintage and one-of- a-kind clothing, my husband and I met the owners' son, who explained that the store buys vintage clothing from the United States and sometimes remakes it into something new — like their unusual jogging trousers, marketed under their own brand, UltraZipper.

"One Christmas my sister was complaining about the cold," he said. "We only stocked vintage American sweatshirts that were much too big for our European customers, and we couldn't sell them. I suggested we turn the sweatshirt into pants using the arms as legs. They were so popular that we now actually have to buy new sweatshirts from America to keep up with demand."

Everything in the shop is priced under about $70, and the target market is juniors.

At Donna Fiera, women who want a European look not easily duplicated stateside will love the collections from 11 different continental designers in Denmark, Spain, Italy and the Netherlands. According to manager Monique van Tholl, Donna Fiera stocks limited-edition dresses, skirts, pants, tops and accessories in colorful prints and fabrics with a vintage or boho look. Prices range from $85 to $425, and the shop carries sizes from small to extra large. Art Deco is a veritable curiosity shop of specially designed upholstery fabrics, lamps and accent pieces such as charming period doorknobs and perfume bottles

Thanks to a mother who tried to pass off steamed cauliflower as mashed potatoes when I was growing up, I'm not a great lover of vegetables. So when I was invited to dine at the Restaurant de Culinaire Werkplaats, which opened two years ago "to inspire people to eat more vegetables and fruits," I was understandably reluctant. Described by its owners as "a blend of design studio and a restaurant for contemporary food and eating concepts at the intersection of food and art," its signature dish is edible paper created from vegetables and fruits. Not only is food served on these plates, but last year four dresses were made from the fabric and featured in a fashion show. It's also used for desserts and gift wrap.

All of the food is made from 72 ingredients, many of which are black in order to spark diners' curiosity. The theme for my five-course dinner was urban landscape. Mini portions served in colorful layers represented concepts such as the urban skyline, urban allotment and even urban trash. Another new concept is the restaurant's pricing: Patrons pay what they think the dining experience is worth, typically $35 to $115 per person. Open only four days a week — Wednesday through Saturday — this award-winning visionary restaurant serves just 30 people. I adored it.

WHEN YOU GO

Purchase a City Card, the most cost-effective way of exploring the city. Sold for 24, 48 or 72 hours, it includes a smart card, a public transport ticket, a pocket guide and more than 50 fee and 60 discounted offers on major tourist attractions and restaurants. The cost is $55 to $85.

Don't tip. Gratuities are already included in the restaurant bill.

Keep your transit map handy. All tram stops are announced in Dutch, which can be challenging unless you check the names with your map.

Watch out for cyclists. They have their own paths adjacent to pedestrians, and they won't stop for you to cross the road.

For general information: www.iamsterdam.com

Museum of Bags and Purses: www.museumofbagsandpurses.com

The Nine Streets: www.theninestreets.com

Zipper: www.zipperstore.nl

Donna Fiera: www.donnafiera.nl

Art Deco: www.wessing.nl

Restaurant de Culinaire Werkplaats: www.deculinairewerkplaats.nl

Photo courtesy of the Museum of Bags and Purses. Photos courtesy of Richard N. Every.