My image of Dubai was one of superlatives. I heard about the hotel where the least expensive accommodation is $1,000 a night. I know they are building Burj Dubai, which will be over a half-mile high when it is completed, plus they are creating several extensive island complexes. One containing 300 islands will resemble a map of the world, and marine or air transport will be the only way to get around.

I wanted to see this audacious place for myself, but could I afford it? Surprisingly, the answer was yes. There are lots of places to stay and things to do in Dubai for the traveler on a budget.

The Jumeirah Mosque, the only mosque open to non-Muslims, offers a tour called "Open Doors, Open Minds" for just $3. The program gives an insight into the Islamic religion that includes an explanation of the basic tenets. My guides were two English women who have lived in Dubai for 17 years. They explained the cleansing process before prayers, the Five Pillars of Islam and that the choice of clothing is more cultural than religious since the Koran only states that clothing should be modest. Interestingly, I noticed that bling has come to the abaya, the coatlike covering worn by women. At the end of the tour the guides welcomed our questions.

Dubai's museums are excellent and reasonable, with most charging about $2 for admission. When I entered the Dubai Museum, I thought the courtyard, which was set up like a typical home of 50 years ago, was the entire museum. I followed the arrows that I assumed led directly to the exit and was amazed to enter the large air-conditioned underground exhibit area with multimedia presentations that record Dubai's development from the early pearl-divers to the discovery of oil in the late 1960s to the current over-the-top developments.

One of my favorite evenings was also the least expensive. I wandered through the Deira spice souk that is filled with wonderful aromas of frankincense and myrrh, took the shuttle ferry across Dubai Creek, and strolled down the corniche to the Heritage and Diving Village. Along the way I toured the Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum's House, once the home of the grandfather of the present ruler and one of the oldest residences in the city. Of special interest in the Maktoum House were the wind towers constructed to keep the home cool. Wet cloths were hung in the towers so that when the wind blew it caused evaporation — a cooling process that worked like an air conditioner.

At the Heritage Village there were school children performing traditional dances, Arabian horses, camel rides, craftspeople and women cooking traditional treats. Admission to the Heritage Village was free, so including the ferry ride, food and admission to Maktoum House, I spent about $5. The best part was it gave me a feel for the real Dubai as there were many local families spending a relaxing evening at the village.

Some discoveries were a bit of a splurge. Late one afternoon I went dune-bashing ($75) in a Toyota Land Cruiser - a must-do in Dubai. With seat belts buckled and some air let out of the tires to make it run better over the sand, my driver took off charging up one dune and careening down another, arriving at the top of a dune along with scores of other vehicles in time to watch sunset. Then it was off to a desert camp for a camel ride, a belly-dancing show and a traditional barbecue buffet.

Dubai is a shopaholic's dream with traditional souks and glitzy malls offering everything from antiques to designer clothing to gold. My reason for visiting the Mall of the Emirates was to see Ski Dubai, another audacious project. I could have watched from the lobby area for free, but I opted for the $20 admission ticket that included winter attire, tobogganing and tubing, but no skiing. A chairlift provides access to the three ski runs — one almost a quarter of a mile long. Watching people, young and old, experiencing cold and snow for the first time was great fun.

Dubai has several beachside resorts, including the world-famous Burj Al Arab and the Atlantis hotels. Both were out of my price range; however, there are public beaches with free access. Combining my desire to stay at a resort plus visiting some of the other six emirates, I booked a room at Sandy Beach Resort in Fujairah. On the way I spent a night at the Holiday Inn in Sharjah, which is just across the creek from Dubai. The emirate of Sharjah has a beautiful corniche, an excellent heritage village, but I most enjoyed the Museum of Islamic Civilization, which deals with many of the scientific advances attributed to the Arab heritage. Also interesting was the display of stylish clothes that can be worn by females when swimming and participating in sports while still remaining covered. Sharjah keeps more closely to the Islamic traditions and is known as the "dry" emirate.

At Sandy Beach Resort in Fujairah, the only emirate on the Gulf of Oman, I relished my days of rest and relaxation. Just a short distance off-shore from the beach is a rock formation called Snoopy Island because it resembles a reclining Snoopy. It is a great place for snorkeling. The resort has many cottages where local families arrived on the weekend to enjoy the beach and barbecue. It was another insight into the everyday life of the people, which is difficult to see in Dubai.

On the one-hour trip back to Dubai I stopped at a scenic overlook with the desert spread out in every direction. It bought home the fact that it was only 50 years ago that the emirates were mostly desert, which makes the Dubai of today even more impressive. The infrastructure is excellent, with Dubai's new metro scheduled to open in September.

Dubai is tourist-friendly with every possible vacation activity imaginable — from deep-sea fishing to visiting conservation areas to dhow dinner cruises. With their oil reserves nearly depleted, Dubai's economic focus has turned to tourism. Dubailand, one of their most audacious projects, is destined to be the world's largest multi-themed entertainment attractions when it is completed in 2020.

IF YOU GO

For more general information, contact www.dubaitourism.ae.

For hotels, visit www.lama.ae, www.ichotels.com, www.acorhotels.com and www.sandybm.com.

Sandra Scott is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.