With much fanfare, music is played in astonishingly beautiful public and private venues all over France. Free organ and voice recitals are held in great 12th century Gothic cathedrals and rock and pop in first-century B.C. Roman coliseums, while classical and jazz are found from major cities to tiny medieval villages.

Paris' elegant Opera Garnier is an international attraction and the city's other superb venues provide a huge selection. But it's also interesting to venture farther and discover what's going on in the countryside.

In the region of Lorraine in the northeast, the city of Nancy epitomizes elegance. It owes its splendor to a plan by Louis XV to get his father-in-law, Stanislaw Leszczynski, king of Poland, out of his hair. Louis gave the dukedom of Lorraine, including a generous allowance, to his 60-year-old beau-pere, believing he wouldn't live long.

In fact, Stanislaw lived for 30 more years and died in 1766. During that time he spent his money on beautifying Nancy by building a system of harmonious squares. The main square, Place Stanislas, is recognized as the most beautiful in the world and listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. On Place Stanislas, opera is presented in the National Theatre, and out in the air casual events include rock and pop.

In Colmar (Alsace), Ravel and Rachmaninoff are big draws. In Burgundy, the city of Dijon holds exceptional opera programs in the auditorium. Last year's lineup included "L'Elisir de Amore," "Carmina Burana" and "Mozart l'Opera Rock." In addition, there are theatrical shows, ballet and much more.

Dijon's International Festival of Folklore, "Les Fetes de la Vigne," celebrated its 60th anniversary last year, and several foreign musicians participated. Summers find "Fete de la Musique" welcoming musical groups to perform on street corners.

In Burgundy's ancient wine town of Beaune, the International Festival of Baroque Music (opera, sacred music and recitals) is held in the memorable courtyard of the centuries-old Beaune Hospice. This is the leading European festival of Baroque music. Lovers of Handel and Mozart come here, and the town also offers operas, sacred music and voice recitals.

For those who enjoy adrenaline-boosting spectaculars, an event worth attending is held on the grounds of the great fortress of Chateau de Ste-Fargeau in Burgundy, two hours' drive from Paris. A thousand years ago the fortress was France's largest. Dynamic pageants re-create historic events with special effects and action. Themes are the Crusades, Joan of Arc, Jacques Coeur, peasants, medieval feasts, Grand Mademoiselle (royalty who owned the chateau), battles, the hunt and the 1914 Liberation. Puccini, Verdi, Mahler, Beethoven and Mozart accompany the action.

Or head for Normandy in May for the spectacular pageant of Festival Jeanne d'Arc held in Rouen, where she was burned at the stake in the city center. Rouen's great Gothic cathedral fascinated Monet to such a degree that he painted a series on the light changing on the magnificent facade. The cathedral offers an excellent selection of organ music. The city provides highly respected opera, symphony, chamber music, classical and modern dance, and much more.

While staying in cities that once were Roman settlements, it's fascinating to experience a program in a Roman amphitheatre built in the first century B.C. In Lyon (Rhone), seek out rock and pop concerts, as the dramatic site has perfect acoustics for theater, music and the outstanding special programs of "Les Nuits de Fourviere." The city also draws audiences to their Baroque Music Festival.

In Arles (Provence), rock and pop finds a perfect venue in the Roman coliseum. In Orange (also in Provence), take in Choregies d'Orange Music and Opera Festival. In addition to the arena, Orange boasts a Roman theater, forum, temples and a triumphal arch.

All over France there is music worth a journey, and this is only the tip of the iceberg. What's on in Bordeaux (Aquitaine) in the southwest? And how about Nantes and the chateaux along the Loire River? Maybe it's time to plan another trip.

IF YOU GO

Air France flies daily to Paris: www.airfrance.com.

From Paris, the TGV train rapidly reaches other cities: www.raileurope.com.

Paris: www.operadeparis.fr; the Four Seasons George V: www.fourseasons.com/Paris; Hotel Fouquet's BarriŠre: www.fouquets-barriere.com.

Colmar: www.festival-colmar.com.

Nancy: www.opera-national-lorraine.fr; www.ot-nancy.fr/sortir/nancy_la_nuit.php; www.ballet-de-lorraine.com.

Dijon: www.bourgogne-tourisme.com; www.zenith-dijon.fr/index.php; www.dijon.fr/sortir.1/les-concerts.36.0.1.php.

Beaune: www.festivalbeaune.com; www.chateau-de-st-fargeau.com.

Lyon: www.nuitsdefourviere.fr; www.bordeaux-toruisme.com/index_uk.html.

Grenoble (Rhone) Jazz Festival in March: www.jazzgrenoble.com.

Belfort Eurock‚ennes Festival, the greatest pop, rock and electro event in eastern France: www.eurockeennes.fr.

Rouen: www.operaderouen.fr; www.normandie-tourisme.fr.

Orange (Provence): www.choregies.assoc.fr.

Nice (Riviera) Jazz Festival: www.nicejazzfestival.fr.

"Fete de la Musique," all over France in June and July: www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr.

French Government Tourist Office: www.franceguide.com.