MONTE CARLO, Monaco — For such a tiny country, there's so much to do here — a world-renowned casino and opera house, celebrity concerts, spectacular spas and sporting events, Michelin-rated restaurants. There's even royalty in this glitzy, historic, sun-splashed paradise that should be on every traveler's list.

As my driver/guide Piero Bruni carefully headed down the narrow, winding road that leads from Nice, France, to Monaco — with motorcyclists and cars whizzing by — he pulled over and stopped.

The royal palace sits on "The Rock" promontory to the right in this view of Monaco.

"There it is!" he exclaimed, pointing below, and I got my first view of Monaco's royal palace on "The Rock" — with the high-rise buildings nearby and the glimmering Mediterranean Sea beyond. Then we continued down the winding road in heavy traffic, entering the gorgeous, parklike casino square, where he dropped me off in front of the historic five-star Hotel de Paris, the start of my tour.

Built in 1864, many famous folks have stayed here, including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and Winston Churchill, who had a top-floor apartment overlooking the yacht-filled marina and palace. This elegant hotel boasts a 600,000-bottle wine cellar, and it was here, in the cellar's privacy, where Prince Rainier III and Princess Grace celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary in 1976.

Monaco is home to the famed Formula One Grand Prix, a major tennis tournament, zoo, exotic gardens, renowned museums and popular nightclubs, as well as cultural events such as ballet, opera and symphony in the opera house. The second smallest country in the world (after Vatican City), it fills less than one square mile, about half the size of New York's Central Park.

Bordered by France on three sides and with 2.5 miles of Mediterranean coastline, since 1863 the petite principality's prime commercial property (including hotels, restaurants, casino) has been owned and operated by Societe des Bains de Mer. It's easy to walk around or take a bus or taxi, especially up the steep topography (even via convenient elevators), where millionaires' mansions seem to hang onto the cliffs for dear life.

The country is comprised of several areas that include Monaco-ville (the promontory where the palace is located), Monte Carlo (named in honor of Prince Charles III, who promoted the casino), and Fontvieille (comprised of reclaimed land from the sea). The official language is French, although English and Italian are prevalent. Some elderly citizens still prefer Monesgasque, which is taught in the schools. Its 32,000 residents — including 6,000 citizens, called Monegasques — pay no income tax.

Monaco hosts 1 million visitors each year. Where else can you walk around ultra-clean, sparkling streets and visit such ritzy shops as Valentino, Chanel, Hermes, Cartier and Prada? There's no graffiti, no homelessness and very little crime. Reportedly even celebrities feel safe here, with paparazzi not allowed to bother them.

Despite tourists having to pay nearly 20 percent VAT (sales tax) — not to mention exorbitant costs on nightclub drinks and upscale restaurant meals — it's probably worth the cost just to say you've been here. Although its famed hotels are expensive, many visitors stay in more affordable towns in nearby France or Italy and take the train or bus in for a day visit. Those who have big bucks can opt for helicopter service from nearby Nice Cote de Azur airport.

Before adequate roads or the underground train station were built, Monaco was somewhat isolated, with a colorful and checkered history that encompassed barbarians, bloody battles, imprisonments, assassinations and scandals. The name Monaco is derived from the Greek word "Monoikos." The first inhabitants were Ligurians in the sixth century B.C.; later came Phoenicians and Dorians, who set up their colony on "The Rock." In 1215 the Genoese built a stone fortress where the palace is today.

Monaco has been ruled by the Grimaldi family for 700 years. It all began in 1297, when Francois Grimaldi cunningly and creatively seized the Monaco fortress from the Genoese with his soldiers when he disguised himself as a monk and fooled the guards. For a brief period the Grimaldis lost control of Monaco; then, in the mid-14th century, Charles I, considered to be the founder of Monaco, acquired it from Genoa.

After a time under French control, in 1861 Prince Charles III signed the treaty with Napoleon III to create the modern principality of Monaco, a sovereign nation under French protection. Since gaming was illegal in France and Italy, to enhance Monaco's economy the casino opened in 1864. Once train service started from Nice in 1868, the tiny area was flooded with wealthy visitors.

Prince Rainier III, who ascended the throne as a bachelor in 1949, was reportedly the first ruling prince to make the 220-room palace his home. But it wasn't until 1956, when he married a beautiful, glamorous American film star, Grace Kelly, that Monaco was really put on the map. Some 30 million watched their televised wedding at the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, and Princess Grace brought a sophisticated presence and pizzazz to the principality, heading such charitable events as the Red Cross Ball.

When she died in 1982 in a car crash here, Monaco plunged into mourning for its beloved princess. Today Monaco's main avenue, a hospital and the Princess Grace Rose Garden are all named in her honor. Prince Rainier III never remarried and died in 2005; the royal couple are buried in the cathedral where they wed. Their son, Prince Albert II, promotes various principality projects today, including green energy, and their two daughters, Princess Caroline and Princess Stephanie, currently reside in Monaco.

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium, founded in 1910 by Prince Albert I, a mariner and scientist who loved to sail the seas. Other museums include the Museum of Prehistoric Anthropology, which he founded in 1902, and the Museum of Napoleonic Souvenirs and Collection of the Historic Archives of the Palace.

The centerpiece is the opulent Monte Carlo Casino, whose Belle Epoque architecture, designed by Charles Garnier, houses the Opera House. Numerous stars have performed here, including Sarah Bernhardt at its 1879 opening.

"Monte Carlo has more than 200 years of arts and culture," Jean Rene Palacio, director of the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival, pointed out to me over drinks at Moods Music Bar. "Prince Albert wants to make the principality more young, hipper. In the summer of 2011 we hope to have a concert on the palace grounds. It will give a new image of the principality — not just gambling and casinos. Here in Monaco we have ballet, opera, an orchestra. It's really rich in culture for a little country."

I had hoped to tour the royal palace, which is open to the public from April to October and, for more than a century, has had a daily changing-of-the-guard ceremony at 11:55 a.m. Alas, I was there just a week before it opened for its seasonal tours, but that gives me a reason to return. I'll be back!

IF YOU GO

For more information: www.visitmonaco.com, www.montecarloresort.com.

The Prince's Palace of Monaco: For information on tours of the state apartments (through Oct. 31 this year), visit www.palais.mc.

Piero Bruni, Driver/Guide, French Riviera Executive Transport Service: www.executive-transport-service.com.

I stayed at the five-star Hotel Hermitage, built in 1900 (rooms from $520 off season; check website for current rates): www.hotelhermitagemontecarlo.com.

Air France flies from various U.S. gateways to Nice via Paris; Monaco is a short drive or train ride from Nice: www.airfrance.com.

Photos courtesy of Sharon Whitley Larsen. 

Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.