Nanjing, often China's capital and one of its most appealing cities, deserves much more attention than it gets. Boasting 2,500 years of history and filled with major historic sights and museums, it's also home to nearly 7 million people and is therefore one of the nation's 10 largest cities.

Nanjing's attractions spread over a vast area. Theoretically the city's inexpensive taxis would be the best way to see them, but as in many other Chinese cities, demand far outpaces supply, and hailing a taxi on the street is often impossible.

Street life is frenetic in downtown Nanjing, China. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

However, for those staying in hotels staffed with English-speaking and savvy concierges, the taxi-access problem is easily solved. The concierge will hire a driver and you will be charged by the hour. Though you may not speak Chinese, the concierge will create a pre-set stop-by-stop itinerary that the driver will follow. This was the case on a recent visit when, at the rate of roughly $11 per hour, I was able to access most major sights without aggravation.

By far the most striking site was the Memorial to the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre. It was erected in remembrance of 300,000 people, mostly civilians, who were slaughtered in just six weeks by Japanese soldiers between December 1937 and January 1938. What's extraordinary is that the murders took place after the city — then China's capital — had been captured.

The event is regarded by many Chinese as their holocaust, and the museum's stark design is reminiscent of the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum in Washington, D.C. Documents, gruesome and graphic photographs, maps, hundreds of documents, evidence from subsequent war crimes trials and a mountain of other historical evidence that would take weeks to absorb are numbing reminders of the depths to which human behavior can sink.

The throne of the leader of the Taiping Rebellion is on display at Nanjing's Presidential Palace.
Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

Nanjing was China's capital through centuries of dynastic rule and the Nationalist period that lasted until the 1949 Chinese Communist takeover (excepting nine years of Japanese wartime occupation). For much of that period control emanated from the multibuilding complex that later became the Presidential Palace. From 17th century Qing emperors through Sun Yat Sen, who led the 1911 revolution that deposed their successors, this was the seat of power. Fascinating to see are Sun Yat Sen's living quarters, a series of art deco 1920s structures, rooms used by Nationalist leader Chiang Kai-shek, and the site of failed post-World War II attempts to broker a civil war settlement between nationalist and Communist leaders. All this plus copious photos, documents and gorgeous gardens can easily consume a half-day.

This complex was also the headquarters of Hong Xiuquan the messianic leader of the 1851-1865 Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, who believed he was the younger brother of Jesus Christ. Bizarre as that may appear, the peasants' revolt he led against the Qing emperors held sway through much of southern and central China for 14 years. Mao Zedong and other Communist leaders regarded this failed revolution as a precursor to their successful efforts.

Millions died in Taiping Revolution fighting, an attempt to end royal rule and spread the region's wealth among the workers. This fascinating story is also the heart of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Historical Museum. There, photos, documents and explanations of the Christian religious zeal that inspired the revolt are all on display. Here, too, a lovely garden offers a fine setting for contemplating this — outside of China — little-known historical happening.

A visit to Nanjing isn't complete without a stop to see its extraordinary city walls. Still extending for nearly 20 miles, this 14th century defense — actually a series of walls within walls — featured 13 gates, each with vertical sliding stone doors that could be raised or lowered to ensure protection or access. The most impressive of these, the Zhonghuamen Gate, is at the city's southern sector. Definitely climb up to the top to enjoy great city views.

Lovers of fine art will be drawn to the Nanjing Museum, one of the nation's most impressive. On hand are fabulous bronzes, sculpture, porcelains, silk brocades and jade pieces that include a full-size suit of armor made from small jade tiles held together by silver wires. Many believe the museum contains much of the material Chiang Kai-shek was unable to take with him when he and other Nationalist leaders fled to Taiwan following their 1949 defeat by the Communists.

For lighter moments, a visit to the Fuzi Miao Confucian Temple complex is to dive into a veritable "Times Square" of religiosity. It's set in the midst of restaurants, hundreds of shops, restaurants, boats for rent on an adjoining lake and the mockup of a temple.

A formidable stairway leads to Sun Yat Sen's mausoleum in Nanjing, China. Photo courtesy of Barbara Selwitz.

For outdoor fans, a visit to Sun Yat Sen's mausoleum is a must. Having the lungs and legs of a Sherpa would be handy as the site is located at the top of a 392-step staircase. But the site is a fit remembrance of the individual all Chinese, regardless of their politics, regard as the father of their country.

Similarly fascinating and endurance-testing is the 14th century tomb of the founder of the Ming dynasty, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the same park as the mausoleum. A strenuous walk is also required to reach it, but at a leisurely pace, this is another major Nanjing draw. Most visitors also enjoy a visit to Yuejiang Tower. A huge hilltop pagoda and adjoining pavilions — all accessible by elevator — provide both a peaceful place for strolling as well as terrific overviews of the city that sprawls below.

IF YOU GO

The well-located Sofitel Galaxy Nanjing features spacious rooms, an excellent lounge with Internet terminals and a concierge staff eager to help you best navigate the city. The hotel is also a 10-minute walk from a busy food and entertainment street where fabulous dumplings and Nanjing culinary specialties are available at reasonable prices: www.sofitel.com/nanjing.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.