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Travel: Bangkok on the Rebound
Written by Ellen Clark   
Monday, 09 August 2010 10:33

Bangkok on the Rebound Bangkok is on the rebound, and there are bargains to be had. In an effort to lure tourists back after the recent fiery political unrest, hotels are offering bargain prices, Thailand's legendary hospitality has never been more welcoming and the Thai people's smiles are sunnier than ever.

Tourism Authority of Thailand's Deputy Governor Juthaporn Rerngronasa said in June 2010, "The political situation in Thailand is over. Right now in Bangkok life is normal." However she also said that the current government is continuing to keep a close watch to ensure  there are no further uprisings. Yet, despite its recent political problems, in the 2010 annual Travel & Leisure Magazine's reader's survey Bangkok was voted the No. 1 city in the world.

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The sprawling Grand Palace in Bangkok is home to the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha. Photo courtesy of Ellen Clark.

 I had no uneasy feelings as I toured Bangkok, always a fascinating city, shortly after the upheaval. As usual the problem was not finding things to see and do but choosing which to include in a short stay.

My first stop was Bangkok's newest attraction, Rattanakosin Exhibition Hall, which opened in March 2010. This is a great place to learn about the history of Bangkok's most impressive complex, the Grand Palace. There is a beautiful model of the Grand Palace, while dioramas and interactive multimedia displays chronicle life during the Rattanakosin era starting in 1782, when construction on the palace began. The exhibits focus on royal culture, court arts, traditional performance and ceremonies, as well as bygone crafts. Addition displays depicting community life are expected to open next year.

thailandgirlFrom the museum, it's only a short walk to a little gem of a restaurant, Krua Apsorn. This unpretentious place looks like all the other modern, brightly lighted Bangkok restaurants sandwiched in amongst shops in the downtown area. But the plethora of framed newspaper and magazine accolades on the wall tell a different story. I started with an assortment of fresh ingredients, including tiny fiery green peppers, dried prawns, onions and peanuts, which I wrapped in slightly bitter tea leaves and popped into my mouth to eat in one bite. This was followed by the house specialty, stir-fried crab with garlic, string beans, basil leaves and yellow chili. The food was delicious, the service warm and efficient, and the price was more than reasonable. 

There was no way I was going to pass up a trip to the sprawling Grand Palace, even though I'd been before, plus this time I had the added benefit of having all of the information I'd gathered from the exhibits at the Rattanakosin museum. Building on the palace began at the beginning of the Rattanakosin era, and more buildings in various architectural styles have been added to the complex over the years. The earlier buildings seem the most exotic with their glittering gold roofs and spires, delicate curves, brilliantly colored decorations, whimsical sculptures and historic murals. The most venerated site is the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha. Actually carved from green jade, this Buddha is considered extremely sacred, and Thai people come here to pay respect to Buddha and his teachings.

 It may be touristy, but the Ayutthaya by Cruise tour is a great way to see Bangkok's ancient capital and get a view of Bangkok's thriving river life. The day begins with a bus ride to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ayutthaya. Impressive stone structures are the remains of what was the capital of the Siamese Kingdom for 417 years from 1350 until the Rattanakosin era, when the capital moved to Bangkok. After a good dose of ancient history, I boarded a spacious boat for a relaxing ride back to Bangkok along the Chao Phraya River. A buffet lunch was served and views along the river offered a fascinating view of modern-day river life.

As wonderful as Bangkok's attractions are, the bargains are also worth a mention. Hotels are struggling to keep their rooms filled, and many will make deals or offer incentives to draw more customers. Even five-star properties are offering some deals. The Sukhothai Bangkok has a "Welcome Back" package that offers a two-night stay and a list of amenities for almost 50 percent less than the usual price. The Metropolitan Bangkok has a "Bouncing Back" package that boasts room rates that are discounted more than 60 percent. At the Mandarin Oriental the fourth night is free, while the Four Seasons Bangkok will comp night No. 3.

 I'm not much of a shopper, but for those who are Bangkok has never been more tempting. A couple of my traveling companions had suits, dresses and jackets handmade and delivered to their hotel in record time and at bargain prices. At downtown malls -- and there are plenty from which to chose -- bargains can be found in everything from designer handbags to cell phones. The MBK Center may not be as high-end as some of the other malls, but the variety of goods and unbeatable prices make it heaven for bargain hunters. A mind-boggling collection of items is spread over an astounding 300,000 feet of space filled with almost 2,000 stores and services. Besides consumer goods galore, there are two food courts. Fifth Food Avenue offers a wide variety of food cooked in open kitchens. Besides traditional Thai specialties, there's food from plenty of other countries including, Japan, Italy, Vietnam and India. MBK Food Center on the sixth floor is cheaper, faster and more frenetic. Here you can find Thailand's answer to "fast food" with noodle outlets and fruit and bakery stalls. 

One of Thailand's latest bargain draws is what is being called "medical tourism." During my stay in Bangkok a friend had some dental work done for more than 50 percent less than the price quoted by her dentist in Salt Lake City.

 

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A cruise down the Chao Phraya River is a good way to observe daily life in Bangkok. All photos courtesy of Ellen Clark.

So is Bangkok safe for tourists? If my experience is any indication, you bet. All is quiet in Bangkok, and Thailand is bending over backward to assure that vacationers feel welcome and free from worry when they travel to "The Land of Smiles."

IF YOU GO

     For more information: www.tat-usa.org or www.seeyouinthailand.com

     Metropolitan Bangkok: www.metropolitan.bangkok.com.bz

     Sukhothai Bangkok: www.sukhothai.com

     Krua Apsorn: 502-505 Sam Sen Road; telephone: 02-241-8528

     MBK Center: www.mbk-center.co.th/jp/

     Grand Pearl Co. Ltd.: www.lgrandpearlcruise.com 

 Ellen Clark is a freelance travel writer and photographer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.



 

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