On April 20, 2010, Floyd E. Dominy, the controversial former commissioner of the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation (1959-1969) died. He was the man who believed the only good river was a dammed river. The pillar of Dominy's legacy is Lake Powell and the 1,960 miles of shoreline that were created on March 13, 1966, with the dedication of the Glen Canyon Dam. From that moment the mighty waters of the Colorado River began to back up until they had flooded the canyon and 96 of its major tributaries.

It's not surprising that when Charleton Heston crash-landed in "Planet of the Apes" the filmmakers chose Lake Powell to represent an apparently alien world. It is, without doubt, America's most spectacular unnatural natural wonder.

For those who love nature in her boldest untamed form, the loss of Glen Canyon was a tragedy of the first order. For proponents of hydroelectric power and popular recreation, it was a victory. In either case, every day when sleek speedboats skim across the surface of the lake, Glen Canyon is there, hundreds of feet beneath their keels. The landscape is surreal with shimmering blue water, towering red-rock cliffs and islands, mysterious side canyons and sandy beaches, all with a minimum of wildlife.

Even though I lament that I never had the opportunity to explore Glen Canyon, I can appreciate the amazing outdoor activities that the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area affords — from wilderness camping and hiking to jet skiing, kayaking and the most luxurious forms of houseboating.

The first time I saw Lake Powell was in the late 1960s. At that point it really did resemble an alien world. Now at the southern end of the lake the towns of Page and Wahweep have become a recreational mecca that attracts 2 million visitors a year. There are multi-slip marinas, including the newest "floating" facility at Antelope Point, shopping centers, hotels for every budget, even convention facilities.

But for the vast majority of visitors the main attractions are the region's natural wonders — from the great U-turn curve the Colorado River takes at Horseshoe Bend to the tapestry sandstone walls of Antelope Canyon to the overhanging grandeur of Rainbow Bridge. And they are all just a hop, skip and a sail from Page and Wahweep.

Page is located in the northern Arizona, 267 miles east from Las Vegas, 280 miles north of Phoenix on U.S. Route 89, a two-hour drive from the Grand Canyon.

Horseshoe Bend, four miles south of Page (on Route 89) is one of those scenic wonders that are hard to believe. To get there, it's necessary to follow a well-marked, sandy trail for about three-quarters of a mile to the canyon rim. There it's possible to peer straight down into the gorge and see the results of the eon-long battle between irresistible rushing water and immovable buttressing sandstone. Any time of day, any time of year, under any weather conditions, Horseshoe Bend is a wonder to behold.

Equally stunning, though considerably more intimate in scale, is Antelope Canyon — the most photographed slot canyon in the Southwest. Visiting this Navaho Tribal Park (just east of Page) requires a permit that can be purchased at the entrance/parking lot. The best way to visit the site, however, is to sign up for one of the many tours that leave from Page. The number of visitors to the canyon is regulated, so it's a good idea to arrive early to avoid the rush. This also makes it possible to savor the serenity and profound beauty of the canyon. Sometimes one of the Navaho guides plays a flute that echoes off the canyon walls.

Rainbow Bridge National Monument is by far the most famous attraction on the lake. Getting there involves a four-hour boat ride north from Page that follows the main channel then turns off into a series of labyrinthine canyons. After tying up at park's dock facility, it's a short hike to the grand formation whose overhanging arch frames Navaho Mountain in the distance. Organized tours take between 7 1/2 and eight hours.

The great stone bridge towers 290 feet from its base to the top of the arch, which is 44 feet thick and 33 feet wide. It's estimated that every year 200,000-300,000 visitors make their way to Rainbow Bridge. Until the 1950s people were allowed to climb to the top of the arch, but that practice is no longer allowed.

By far the most leisurely way to explore Lake Powell's hundreds of miles of waterways and side canyons is by houseboat. My host was Steve Carothers, the general manager of the Antelope Point Marina. His company rents a variety of houseboats, from small single-family vessels to the most luxurious 75 footers that can accommodate 10 or more, complete with full kitchen, flat-screen TV and a full-size fantail hot tub for a price of $1,000 per night. Divided between several families, this turns out to be not so bad. To dock this floating hotel on a secluded sandy beach and dine at sunset as the cliffs turn russet red and the water turns iridescent blue is to enjoy Lake Powell to the fullest.

IF YOU GO

Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas (for lodging, dining and boat tours), 2445 W. Dunlap Ave., Suite 210, Phoenix, AZ, 85021; 800-341-8934 or www.lakepowell.com

Glen Canyon National Recreational Area, P.O. Box 1507, Page, AZ, 86040-1507; 928-608-6404 or www.nps.gov/glca

Rainbow Bridge National Monument, P.O. Box 1507, Page, AZ, 86040, www.nps.gov/rabr

Detours (offering organized and customized tours of the region including Lake Powell and Antelope Canyon), P.O. Box 11956, Tempe, AZ, 85284; 866-438-6877 or www.detoursaz.com

Jim Farber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.