Ninety miles southeast of Los Angeles in the high desert lies the historic Old Town of Temecula, Calif., and the wine country just east of the city. Encircled by mountains, most notably Mount Palomar, home to the famous observatory, the Temecula Valley spreads over 32 square miles of planted fields, sprawling developments and bedroom communities that serve Orange County and San Diego.

These have taken the land where orchards of avocados, grapefruit and other citrus used to thrive, and the city's population has grown dramatically in the last 10 years to 105,000. However the rolling hills east of the city have preserved the agricultural heritage, now home to over 30 commercial vineyards, many producing world-class wines.

This is the only city in California with a Native American name (it translates to "place of the sun"). The Temecula Indian tribes trace their history on the land back hundreds of years, some say thousands.

Spanish missionaries were the first Europeans to visit the area in 1797. In fewer than 100 years several major land treaties with the tribes were broken by the Mexican and American governments. Land grants were given to settlers, there were massacres and in 1882 the Indian land was reduced to 4,000 acres when they were forcibly settled on the Pechanga Indian Reservation that rested against the western mountains. Today the reservation is home to the fourth-largest casino in the United States and the tribe is prospering for the first time in its long history.

An antique vineyard tractor bakes in the sun of Temecula, Calif. Photo courtesy of John Blanchette.

Much of Old Town Temecula has been preserved and stretches over six city blocks long and three wide. It became a major commercial hub when the Overland Express made it a regular stagecoach stop in 1858 and the railroad followed in 1882. There are still some buildings that date back to the period, including the original train depot. The novel "Ramona" by Helen Hunt Jackson was based on the town, which she visited in 1884. Later on Earl Stanley Gardner, author of the Perry Mason detective series, called the town his home for 39 years from 1931 to 1970.

There is a genuine feel of the Old West, especially on the wooden walkways of Main Street. Not to be missed are several wine-tasting rooms (especially Lorimar and Tesoro) and the Temecula Valley Cheese Co. and the Temecula Olive Oil Co., which also offer tastes. A number of great galleries and antique shops include the funky Old West memorabilia at Doc's. The Temecula Valley History Museum and Children's Museums are fun and educational. The best barbecue in town can be found at Sweet Lumpy's, where the peanuts are free.

Six miles east on Rancho California Road and across Butterfield Stage Road vineyards start popping up on either side. Wineries are also located on DePortola Trail off of Anza Road.

The first commercial vines were planted in 1968, but many think it was the invasion of the glassy-winged sharpshooter in the mid 1990s that brought the vineyards world-class status. More than 40 percent of the vines were ruined by the insect, causing vintners to find ways to control the pest and rethink vineyard plantings. They did a remarkable job with great wines running the spectrum from elegant champagnes, dry whites and aromatic reds to luscious late-harvest and port wines.

Some of my favorite tastings were at South Coast, two-time California Winery of the Year. The resort and spa has 76 villas on the property and pours my favorite sauvignon blanc from the area. Wine maker Jon McPherson is the brother of Kim McPherson of McPherson Vineyards in Lubbock, Texas, which makes one of the world's best viogniers. During the summer months they host a number of concerts at the venue.

Ponte has a beautiful outdoor restaurant run by a disciple of Thomas Keller, once a sous chef at his French Laundry in Napa. The champagnes are excellent, and the chardonnay has a remarkable pear finish. The area's nicest dessert wines are a good way to finish off a meal.

Chef Anthony Bartolatta's Roasted Corn Bisque is a good menu choice at the Thornton Winery in Temecula, Calif. Photo courtesy of John Blanchette.

Briar Rose, which makes world-class zinfandels, is a small boutique winery built by a former Disney artist who modeled it after Snow White's cottage. Gerry and Rosie Wilson run a dog-friendly winery at Wilson Creek and are known for their Almond Champagne.

Joe Hart of Hart Winery is one of the pioneers of the wine industry in the Temecula Valley. He makes limited high-quality wines, producing only 5,000 cases a year of multi-award winning wines, one of which is the Portuguese-style port.

Thornton Winery has one of the top restaurants in the valley and also hosts a Champagne Jazz Festival during the summer. Chef Anthony Bartolotta's Roasted Corn Bisque is delicious, and the viognier is the best bet in the tasting room.

Another great culinary adventure can be found at the Temecula Creek Inn's Temet Grill, a comfortable modern resort set on a 27-hole golf course with a pool and spa. The Grapeline wine country shuttle carries visitors to the tasting rooms in style, beginning at $48 a person.

Another way to see the area is from 1,500 feet up in the air on Denni Barrett's Magical Adventures Balloon Rides. The adventure starts at sunrise in the South Coast Winery parking lot and offers views of the orchards and vineyards as passengers float with the prevailing winds down the length of the valley for an hour-long flight. A champagne breakfast awaits on return to South Coast's restaurant. Rates start at $160.

WHEN YOU GO

A number of housing options are available in the valley, from resorts and country inns to chain hotels and motels. I stayed at the Embassy Suites, within walking distance of Old Town. For a Wine Road map, brochures, winery, housing and restaurant information and lists of events and festivals, contact the Temecula Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau,www.visittemecula.org or 800-363-2852.

John Blanchette is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.