It's hard to imagine that this tiny, seaside land was once sagebrush, dunes and marshland in the middle of nowhere. If it hadn't been for a few wealthy visionaries more than a century ago, Coronado would not be the popular tourist destination it is today. As it turned out, for decades this small gem has charmed fortunate tourists —including celebrities — from all over the world.

Often referred to as an island, affluent Coronado, with a population of some 25,000, is actually a 13.-5-square-mile peninsula. Ideally situated just south of San Diego between the San Diego Bay and the Pacific Ocean, it is accessed from the north via the landmark San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge or ferry or from the south via "The Strand" — State Route 75.

Coronado has the feel of a charming Midwestern town plunked down by a gorgeous beach, and no wonder: It was developed by Midwesterners who flocked here in the late 19th century along with people from the East Coast to seek a healthy, sunny climate. (As a 1918 ad in the Coronado Journal boasted: "Coronado — the ideal place to live: population 3,500, sun shines average 356 days a year, no smoke, no factories, no saloons, no jails, no dust in summer, no mud in winter.")

Today it continues to be a popular year-round getaway for anyone who wants a relaxing, magical escape.

Throughout the past century, Coronado — home to Naval Air Station North Island, which celebrates the Centennial of Naval Aviation this year — has been the playground for royalty, presidents and movie stars. Many of them have stayed at Hotel Del —Coronado's famous landmark that opened in 1888.

"Probably no other small town in America has hosted so many VIPS," wrote the late Katherine Eitzen Carlin, a resident since 1928, in her book (with Ray Brandes), "Coronado: The Enchanted Island."

Named for the nearby (15 miles south) Coronado Islands, Coronado means "the crowned one" in Spanish. The crown-shaped chandeliers in Hotel Del's famed Crown Room were designed by L. Frank Baum, author of "The Wonderful Wizard of Oz" and other Oz books. He wintered here for several years at 1101 Star Park Circle, a charming yellow house on the route of the Coronado Walking Tour.

"Coronado was his Emerald City," noted Nancy Cobb, who co-founded the walking tour in 1980 with another longtime Coronado resident, Gerry MacCartee.

The tour is a well-spent, entertaining 90 minutes. On a recent weekday morning our small group met in the lobby of the Glorietta Bay Inn (the former Spreckels Mansion, across the street from Hotel Del). Cobb regaled us with humorous anecdotes and history tidbits before we began our leisurely tour.

We learned that this little beach paradise had once been a desolate area full of jackrabbits. It was because of the jackrabbits and quail that two well-heeled Midwestern gentlemen, Elisha Babcock Jr. and Hampton Story, came to Coronado in the late 19th century on a hunting expedition. Realizing the potential of this great location with perfect climate and gorgeous views, in 1885 these visionaries and others bought the peninsula for $110,000.

As Babcock noted then, "This is the finest watering spot on the whole Pacific Coast." They auctioned off lots and planned to build "the most luxurious hotel west of the Mississippi, which would attract visitors from all over the world."

In 1886 the developing duo hired Reid Bros. Architects from the Midwest to construct the luxury hotel they envisioned.

"I want you to build me an American castle," Babcock told them — hence the turrets and cupolas seen today on the Queen Anne-style hotel. Hotel Del broke ground in early 1887 with lumber brought down the coast and delivered across the bay by barge.

Then a financial bust hit, and many investors left town. Sugar magnate and entrepreneur John D. Spreckels, a 34-year-old multimillionaire hailing from San Francisco, came to the rescue. He not only took over the Hotel Del project, but he also built the local streetcar system and the San Diego and Arizona Eastern railway, published two San Diego newspapers, and owned the water and electric rights as well as the ferry system.

For the Hotel Del, he had china imported from Paris, linen from Scotland, glassware from Belgium, even toilet seats from England. The hotel cost $1 million, including furnishings and, with round-the-clock workers (including Chinese, who didn't speak English) took only 11 months to complete.

Since then it has hosted several historic banquets, including one in 1920 for Britain's Prince of Wales (later the Duke of Windsor), who would cause a major scandal. As the uncrowned King Edward VIII, he gave up the throne in 1936 to marry twice-divorced American Wallis Simpson. She had lived in Coronado from 1918 to 1921 with her first husband, Earl Spencer, the first commanding officer of North Island. One of their former Coronado residences, known as the Duchess of Windsor Cottage, has been relocated on the hotel grounds.

In 1958 "Some Like It Hot," starring Marilyn Monroe and Tony Curtis, was filmed at the Del. The hotel (which, of course, has a resident ghost named Kate Morgan) was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970. Much local history, including photos and newspaper clips, can be viewed at the nearby Coronado Historical Association's Museum of History and Art.

Hardly any homes on this ocean paradise are priced under $1 million, but visitors can sample the magical life. There are unusual shops to explore and pampering hotel spa treatments to enjoy, as well as high-quality productions to see at the renowned Lamb's Players Theater. There's also dining, swimming, sunbathing, bicycling — even a romantic gondola ride on the bay at Loews Coronado Bay Resort.

A visit to Coronado wouldn't be complete without having a fabulous burger (organic beef, turkey or veggie) at Burger Lounge (a local chain) and sampling a gourmet French dinner at the romantic Chez Loma, housed in an intimate, historic 1889 property just steps from The Del.

WHEN YOU GO

For general information: Coronado Visitor Center, www.coronadovisitorcenter.com or San Diego Convention and Visitors Bureau, www.sandiego.org

Coronado Walking Tours are available Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 11 a.m., Glorietta Bay Inn lobby. For reservations: www.coronadowalkingtour.com

Hotel del Coronado: www.hoteldel.com

Glorietta Bay Inn: www.gloriettabayinn.com

Loews Coronado Bay Resort: www.loewshotels.com

The Gondola Co.: www.gondolacompany.com

Chez Loma: www.chezloma.com

Lamb's Players Theater: www.lambsplayers.org

Coronado Historical Association Museum of History and Art: www.coronadohistsory.org

Naval Air Station North Island and the Naval Aviation Centennial 2011: www.navalaviation100.org, www.public.navy.mil/airfor/centennial/pages/welcome.aspx, www.coronado.ca.us/library (click on "Programs and Exhibits")

Burger Lounge: www.burgerlounge.com

Photos courtesy of Hotel del Coronado and Sharon Whitley Larson

Sharon Whitley Larsen is a San Diego-based freelance travel writer.