This happened to me everywhere I went in Ashland during a three-day visit. Ashland is the home of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, and "What have you seen?" was the opening line from waitresses, hotel clerks and coffee baristas. Even my masseuse at the Waterstone Spa asked for my opinion on Prince Hal's performance in "Henry IV" while she rubbed lavender oil into my tired feet. This may seem a bit intrusive for anyone who is just trying to relax, but for a theater geek like me, Ashland is mecca in southern Oregon.

Ashland is a small town, with a permanent population of only 22,000 people, located between the Siskiyou and the Cascade mountain ranges. But the town is swarmed each year by 125,000 people who attend the festival between February and October. Ashland is a mere 20 miles from the California border and almost 300 miles from Portland. But visitors come from all over the country and increasingly from all over the world as the Oregon Shakespeare Festival's reputation has grown.

The festival was founded in 1935 by a young teacher and now presents an eight-month season of 11 plays on three different stages. The 2011 season features four plays by Shakespeare: "Measure for Measure," "Julius Caesar," "Henry IV: Part Two" and "Love's Labor's Lost." The season also includes seven more productions by classic and contemporary playwrights. It is an eclectic list that ranges from "To Kill a Mockingbird" to "Pirates of Penzance."

I saw three plays during my stay, which is the average for most visitors. I also met many people who return to the festival year after year. When I was checking in at the lovely and historic Ashland Hotel, the guest next to me was checking out — but booking return stays for the next three years.

Part of the charm of Ashland is the town itself. Its many Victorian buildings date back to the gold-rush boom in the late 19th century. Several of these homes have been turned into bed-and-breakfast accommodations to house the hoards of theater-goers who descend on the town in the summer.

Ashland also has one of the finest public parks in the country. The 100-acre Lithia Park was designed in 1920 and is set along Ashland creek. Park tours are offered three mornings a week from May through September. My tour guide, Dennis, said he retired from his acting career at the festival "before I started to forget Shakespeare's magnificent text." But Dennis still puts on a great show as he explains the history of the park and points out the different species of cedar and redwood trees along the paths. Dennis encouraged me to try the famed Lithia water that comes from the local spring and is purported to promote good health and peace of mind. It is high in several minerals, including lithium. Too bad it tastes like rotten eggs delivered via a historic water fountain in the middle of the park.

To get the taste of the Lithia water out of my mouth, I headed for lunch at Greenleaf Restaurant, which is located on Main Street, just a few blocks from the park. I had a Mediterranean salad and a bowl of creamy wild salmon chowder. Both were excellent, and the taste of the Lithia water was effectively banished.

I also enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the cheerful Morning Glory Restaurant, located in a converted Victorian near Southern Oregon University. The cafe has brightly painted walls and an equally colorful clientele. Even my breakfast looked like an artist's palette. My omelet was filled with smoked mozzarella, tomato and basil and accompanied by a yogurt parfait with Marionberry compote.

Several wineries in the region use grapes grown in the Rogue Valley. I took a short trip out of town to Weisinge's Vineyard and Winery. Their tasting room offers small samples of their three white wines and five red wines for $8. Visitors pick their favorite wine and take a glass outside on the patio to enjoy the view. On summer weekends musicians play on the patio. The day I visited, I heard a talented jazz band that was scheduled to perform later that night at the festival's "Green Show" — the free performance in the courtyard that is held most nights before the curtain goes up at the festival theaters.

Most of the restaurants in town offer a pre-theater menu that guarantees diners won't be late for your show. I tried the fish tacos at the Standing Stone Brewery, where the fish was local and fresh, the service was quick and the atmosphere was lively. I also discovered a small cafe upstairs at Bloomsbury Books that has a nice outside garden for a sweet treat or a coffee.

There are a host of outdoor activities in the Ashland area for anyone motivated to work off some of the yummy meals. Fishing, mountain-biking and rafting are all popular, and there are several local outfitters who can arrange equipment rentals and trips.

But for me Ashland is all about the theater. With careful advance planning, it's possible to see a different play each night and still fit in the occasional 2 p.m. matinee. Many performances do sell out, especially in the summer, so it's wise to get tickets in advance. It's fun to try all three of the theaters, but my favorite is the outdoor Elizabethan Stage. Modeled after the 17th century Fortune Theater of London, it is only open from May through early October. Even then, it can get mighty cold by the time the final curtain falls. A jacket is a good idea, and the theater snack bar rents festival blankets. Then it's pure magic to sit back and enjoy seeing Shakespeare performed under the stars.

WHEN YOU GO

Where to stay: The Ashland Springs Hotel at 212 E. Main St. is a historic property in downtown Ashland. Rooms start at about $200 per night and include an impressive continental breakfast on the mezzanine: www.ashlandspringshotel.com or 888-795-4545.

Village Suites at Ashland Hills, 2525 Ashland St., is near the freeway, with two-room suites and a simple continental breakfast delivered to your room. It's good for families and allows pets. Room are about $110 per night: www.windmillinns.com or 541-482-8310.

Where to eat: Standing Stone Brewing Co. at 101 Oak Street offers upscale pub food and local beers: 541-482-2448. Dinners run $15 to $25.

Greenleaf Restaurant at 49 N. Main St. features Mediterranean and vegetarian options. Lunch costs between $8 and $18: 541-482-2808.

Morning Glory Restaurant at 1149 Siskiyou Blvd. has great breakfasts for $6 to $15: www.morninggloryrestaurant.com or 541-488-8636.

The tasting room at Weisinger's Vineyard and Winery is open daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. from May to September and Wednesday to Sunday from October to April: www.weisingers.com or 541-488-5989.

To visit the Oregon Shakespeare Festival: www.osfashland.org or 541-482-2111 (information), 541-482-4331 (box office).

Photos:

A group of children play at the scenic Lithia Park in Ashland, Ore. Photo courtesy of Maura Daly Phinney.

Open to the sky, the outdoor Elizabethan Stage at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland seats 1,200 people. Photo courtesy of T. Charles Erickson. (end caption)

The Siskiyou Violins delight audiences at a Green Show at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland. Photo courtesy of T. Charles Erickson.

A group of children play at the scenic Lithia Park in Ashland, Ore. Photo courtesy of Maura Daly Phinney.

Maura Daly Phinney is a freelance travel writer.